Before I divulge into the details, I’d like to spend a few moments regarding public transport in Tanzania. After doing a bit of traveling these past few weeks both to meet other trachoma researchers and to volunteer with Engineers Without Borders, I have had many dreadful bus rides. The further you are from the main highways, of which there are three; one that runs north to Kenya, one up to Dodoma in the center, and another south to Zambia and Malawi, the more adventurous the ride becomes. 
The photo is of the local transport in the Usambara Mountains where I stopped to visit a family I lived with in 1999. Limited on time, I decided to bike through the mountains rather than hike to their village. On more than one occasion I thought I might die of exhaustion but “Mungu akipenda”-god willing, I survived.
Besides the fact the bus never leaves on time, the price is always higher for a “mzungu”, a seat could mean a soda crate or a bag of maize, and the bus actually reaching the destination without a breakdown is miracle, there are the crazy drivers. The most notable include the man that was smoking weed while passing a double-container lorry going up a hill, the fellow that ran personal errands along the route stopping for mangoes, fish, charcoal, a chat with old friends, to smoke a cigarette, and of course to go to the bathroom, and finally there was the ungentleman that insisted that for any bag over 1 kg (which by my rough calculation meant all the bags on the bus) there was an extra $5 fee. The fee of course only applied to white passengers, of which I was the only one.
The highlight of the past few weeks has been the time spent in Ngelenge Village, on the shores of Lake Nyasa (or Lake Malawi). The village is a 2 to 4 day trip from Dar es Salaam (depending on your mode of transport of course) and set in the most picturesque surroundings. There is the deep, blue fresh lake (the 3rd largest in Africa with a depth of 700 meters and a length of 560 kilometers), the Livingstone Mountains, and without any major road or city for hundreds of kilometers one really feels as if they are on the edge of the world.
The first photo is of the mighty Ruhuhu River which is crossed either by canoe, or when you have a 4 ton lorry full of cement and lumber as we did, by a human powered ferry. The next photo is of Lake Nyasa, which is full of delicious fish, crocodiles, and even hippos. 
I, along with a number of energetic folks, have been volunteering on a water/health project in Ngelenge since 2004. The project was initiated by the villagers themselves who created their own development NGO (NGEDEA) with assistance from relatives in Dar es Salaam. Engineers Without Borders (EWB) joined the team in 2005 and we have been sending volunteers there every 6 months. To learn more check out: www.ngedea.org or http://www.ewb-sfp.org/projects/tanzania/current.html.
The agenda this trip was largely to finish the health dispensary which the villagers are building themselves and to assist with the other projects including a gardening/irrigation project, improved water distribution scheme, a pilot filter project, and a new initiative on improved latrines. The days were full and included lots of sweaty but energizing labor. After realizing my weak arms were no match for the burly village men digging the pit of the dispensary latrine, I stuck to the paint team. The NGEDEA members, both those living in the village and those I traveled with from Dar es Salaam, were incredible at enlivening the villagers to assist with the efforts. Even the little kids helped!
Sadly the local government is mostly trained in sitting under the mango tree and talking, talking, and talking. In addition to the funds that EWB raised, Ngelenge was fortunate to have two local groups from Spencer, Iowa (PEO Women’s Chapter and Rotary) raise money for the dispensary latrine and the new latrine initiative. Since 2004 NGEDEA-EWB has nearly completed the dispensary, dug three wells, and initiated improved water handling practices, such as modifying home water containers with a tap (see photo) rather than having kids stick their dirty hands in the water to obtain a drink. However, there has been little effort to improve sanitation, which is fundamental for improving health.
A health survey done by an epidemiologist in 2006 found that 59% of the households are affected by diarrheal disease and 35% by trachoma. Although the villagers have expressed their interest in building improved latrines to reduce smells, improve cleanliness, and “modernize”, due to lack of resources and encouragement there have not been any latrine efforts in the village. The aim of the current initiative is to provide educational materials and seminars on the links between sanitation and health, offer technical training to local villagers who will assist in building the latrines, and establish a latrine revolving fund managed by the village latrine team. Villagers will pay for the full cost of the latrine, yet over an extended period (2 years) when money, such as during harvest season, becomes available. While in the village I trained the newly formed latrine group in accounting procedures (see photo), evaluating current latrines and monitoring progress on building future latrines, and provided educational materials in preparation for the hygiene and latrine technical seminar that will be given by Tanzanian sanitation experts in the village in January.
The most challenge aspect having villagers utilize the revolving fund will be to overcome the legacy of outsiders “giving donations”. In the past, Tanzanian latrine projects only required villagers to dig the latrine pit, and provide the materials for the latrine superstructure. However, the cement slab floor and other purchased materials were donated. Current thinking by international NGOs, such as WaterAid, and the Tanzanian Government is that subsidizing latrines is not sustainable and erodes local empowerment. Furthermore when latrines are subsidized it limits the number of latrines that can be built as funds are never sufficient to build one for every household in the village.
Finally, I could not leave the village without making rice krispie bars. There were a hit when I was there in 2005 and once again the village women eagerly ate the sweet, sticky mash of goo. There were also amazed at how quickly they can be made, considering the the hours it takes to harvest cassava, dry cassava, pound cassava, boil cassava with water, and finally obtain ugali for eating. The wonders of packaged food!
As I said farewell to Ngelenge I was quite certain it would not be my last visit. Perhaps I can even do a bit of research there in the future. And the villagers too reminded me “karibu sana tena”, you are most welcome again.
Ngelenge Women
They remembered I like my tea with just a bit of sugar;
taught me how to sing songs about traveling, love, and loss
stayed up late working and rose early to work again
truthful and honest with each other
showed me beads they use to excite their husbands, then gave me some
ate only after everyone else was fed
complained bitterly and then laughed with joy
wrestled like giggling children for the remaining bite of fish
waited, but were never idle; always a task to do
braided hair, wove mats, peeled cassava, and planned for tomorrow
spoke with strong voices
let the light in the hearts shine
wore only skirts, even to swim
walked with a straight, tall back
They loved. They accepted. They lived.
