Thursday, September 20, 2007

If you dig, you will find

The sun continues to shine, the dust continues to cover every surface, and the kids continue to have most of the answers to life here in Kongwa. Our most recent research village was Mkutani where again when talking to the schoolchildren they knew more than most adults about how trachoma is spread, how to prevent it, and the importance of having a clean and well kept home. Of course putting words into action is especially difficult when there is no water. The photo is of men digging a well in Majawanga. They dig up to 20 feet to find water, which of course is not sanitary as anything can enter the hole.


Then there is the afternoon sun which can become so strong that even the pigs must rest.

Even in villages that have natural flowing sources of water, such as Mkutani, the water is shared with the cattle, the kids bathing, the donkeys carrying the few gourds, blankets, and cheap metal pots made in China when the Wamaasi, a pastoralist tribe, move from one grazing area to another.

When talking to the women's groups, which are always strong and number and always take their time coming to the meeting, they told me they do not boil the water from the river. They also said that diseaes such as cholera, diarrhea, and typhoid are quite common. When I asked why they do not boil they gave so many reasons...boiling requires firewood which is difficult to find, it takes time to boil which they do not have, and because simply "tumezoea"-we have become accustomed to this way. Our research cannot attempt to solve all the difficulties of water, sanitation, and health, but it is showing that there are direct links between not just access but the quality of a water source and latrines, as well as how hygiene behavior is linked spatially throughout a village.

When not traveling to the villagesI have managed to convince the Italian friends I have met in
Kongwa to go hiking. Hiking here in Tanzania is not like in Switzerland where there are nicely marked trails and hopefully a rest house serving cheese and bread along the way. Rather the trails often are those the villagers created as "njia panya"-trails of the rat or shortcuts, through the fields and forest. When hiking last weekend from Kongwa to Mpwapwa (about 30 km away) the Tanzanians we met along the trail were shocked that we had decided to walk when we could have taken the bus. Somehow for the "scenery" does not resonate with them.
The next photos are from our hiking in the Uluguru Mountains, about 4 hours southwest of Kongwa. What a delight it was to be where everything is green, instead of red, and the produce is plentiful. We set off without a guide, but soon an entrepreneurial young boy not more than nine years old, found us a bit lost in the fields and offered to be our guide. He really did not know the trails himself as he bushwacked through the thorns and grass and fell a number of times, but still we felt safer with him by our side. He then told us a sad story about how he was an orphan and both of his parents are deceased.
Right as our pity for him peaked, we met his mom on the way back to the village where we were spending the night. She shouted out a hearty hello to her son. We treated him to the liquid gold of the village (Coke) and gave him some Shillings for his services, and said goodnight to both him and his mom under the fading light of yet another beautiful Tanzanian sunset.


Sun Kissed
Every evening the sun kisses the clouds
then the tall trees, the houses and rooftops,
the people who may or may not be too busy to stop
then the cattle and goats and dogs and cats,
the plants both wild and sown with care
finally the rocks, the sand, the very
Earth we depend on everyday for support.
Not a single thing is left untouched
by the most incredible, infinite kiss
the world has ever known.
And to think there is still tomorrow.